Mariscos La Estrella

In the fishing village of Popotla — that maze of seafood shacks over the water about ten minutes south of downtown Rosarito, 45 minutes or so from the San Ysidro border — Mariscos La Estrella has earned its name the hard way: it's the most celebrated table in the village, with a perfect TripAdvisor score and an owner, Lorena, who has become part of the draw. Even a Michelin-starred chef has come to cook here with her, and it makes sense: the product arrives from pangas that unload a few yards away.

The house star is the marciano, or Martian crab — a local spider crab so alien-looking you'll hardly find it anywhere else in Mexico — fried in butter and garlic, with sweet meat you eat with your hands and zero remorse. Rounding out the picture: giant oysters shucked to order, whole zarandeado-grilled fish, local blue crab and ceviches of the day, with chips and salsa while you wait. Portions are generous and prices honest for what hits the table: a full-blown seafood feast here costs a fraction of what it would in San Diego, and dollars are accepted.

The setting is exactly what Popotla promises: simple tables overlooking the surf, opportunistic seagulls, and the fishing village working all around you — walk through the village seafood market before or after lunch to see where your meal comes from.

Getting there: take the free road south and turn in at the Popotla arch at Km 33, next to the movie studios where Titanic was filmed; the last stretch is dirt road, which is part of the charm. Open daytime hours, roughly mid-morning to sunset. Local tips: bring cash, go midweek to have the place nearly to yourself, and on weekends arrive before 2 PM, ahead of the family rush.

Don't miss

• ◆Martian crab in butter and garlic
• ◆Giant oysters
• ◆Grilled zarandeado fish
• ◆Local blue crab