Ensenada

Ensenada is the big city on this coast: a real port, with cruise ships, a fishing fleet and a life of its own that doesn't depend on tourism even though it welcomes it. For visitors it concentrates into one walkable circuit by the water: the malecón with the monumental flag at Ventana al Mar, the Mercado Negro fish market and Calle Primera with its shops, bars and restaurants. It's the most complete day trip from Rosarito.

Start at the Mercado Negro, next to the boardwalk: the city's landmark fish and seafood market, where the local fleet unloads clams, mussels, shrimp, catch of the day and, in season, lobster. Around it are the stands that made Ensenada famous for fish tacos and seafood tostadas; eating standing up, salsas in the middle, is the required ritual. Go early, when the product comes in and the stalls are at their best.

Then walk the malecón to the Ventana al Mar plaza, with its giant flag facing the bay, and head one block up to Calle Primera (Av. López Mateos), the tourist heart: handicrafts, cafés, and historic cantinas like Hussong's, open since 1892 and one of the places that claim to have invented the margarita.

Ensenada is also a craft beer and wine capital: there are taprooms all over downtown and tasting rooms from Valle de Guadalupe wineries, in case you want a taste of the Wine Route without driving into the valley. Between that, the food and the boardwalk, the day fills itself.

Great for

• ◆Fish tacos and street-stand seafood
• ◆Walking a port town with real local life
• ◆Craft beer and urban wine-tasting rooms
• ◆A full day mixing food, shopping and ocean